Scenes from my new California neighborhood, where flamingos roam free. I am in my happy kitschy place!
Belated September books. I was in the midst of an international move so didn’t have as much relaxing reading time as usual. Sadly, only The Fair Fight caught my fancy.
Too Like the Lightning, Ada Palmer
Toys are talking what?
Enlightenment fan-girl squee
Too clever by half
Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children, Ransom Riggs
Lame excuse for a novel.
Film better than book?
The Fair Fight, Anna Freeman
Fib that cully, girl!
Destroy the piano leg myth,
And make a new friend.
Huh, just realized I pronounce piano with two syllables. Another new discovery via Goodreads: I have only rated four books with a lowly one star. Twilight, March, The Lovely Bones, and Elric “I sense there is tragedy implicit in our love” of Melniboné. My review of latter concludes, “Oh, and there’s a magical anus.”
From the personal log of s/v Rincewind’s shwabbie as she and the Captain sailed around the northern peninsula of Newfoundland.
August 1, Port Saunders
By the time I was up, tacking out 12mi and back in toward Port Saunders. 5pm sailing past Keppel Island on a broad reach.
Sailing into Port Saunders, graceful as a swan…and the engine won’t start. We’ve had problems before but now black smoke and no water. Managed to motor/jib onto an industrial wharf, coming in scary-fast but thankfully with the help of a man on the dock. But no: “Can’t stay here, setting off fireworks later.” And sure enough there was a line of incendiaries along the pier. We’d seen bunting everywhere in town on our way in – turns out it’s Come Home Week. Every 10 years Pt S has a town-wide family reunion – more on that, but first we had to find a nook for Rincewind.
Morris Ryan, the harbormaster, solved our problem by calling his first cousin who was out on a power boat drinking with his buddies. So, “Skipper Rob,” Andre, Clarence, and George came to our rescue. They were “feeling good,” as Morris put it, so it was a wild ride, but they got us over to pretty much the right place. Morris helped us tie up and took off, but we had a grand gam with the other lads, still drinking on their boat. Impossible to capture the accents and cadence, but the chat ranged from genealogy, hockey (note: do some research before next Canada trip), to moose hunting. Lively group – one of them even peed off the bow of Rincewind!
After the gam and a can of soup for dinner, sure enough: fireworks! Terrific view from the boat.
Then Bill talked me into going to the nightly Come Home dance at the old high school gym – complete with Looney Tunes sports murals and their mascot, a red-eyed cowled Dorset Indian. The band was good, country mostly. We witnessed two local traditions before we left: Seven Ugly Women folk song (men dressed as women) and the Tina Turner lip-sync. We were a bit mystified. Good fun! We even did two “Keppel Island” shots in honor of our safe arrival.
[We were early birds – the party picked up just as we tired sailors headed back.]
Next: Come Home Week, family reunion, historic First Nations trail, shed crawl, handmade boat race…and then a day of doom.
Absolutely essential, the book I’d highly recommend to everyone who has confessed, “I don’t know anything about Newfoundland.” The frame of the book is personal to the author, following in the footsteps of a charitable ancestor. Unfortunately for me, his ancestor didn’t spend much time where we were sailing around the Northern Peninsula. But the historical anecdotes are delightful – though often dark – and knowing something about Newfoundland history was an automatic “in” with the locals.
I’m glad I picked this up on a whim in a gift shop. It’s fun! Half an informal dictionary of the Newfoundland language (what’s after happening now, b’y?) and half an encyclopedia of traditional culture. Also highly recommended, especially for anyone traveling there.
The only famous Newfoundland book, and it never came up in conversation. I’d read it ages ago and didn’t get the chance to re-read until after the trip. My updated impression is that her characters aren’t much like the outport Newfoundlanders we encountered. First, hardly anything of the accent, which I love. And little of the sense of humor and kindness we met with in every port. She does tap into some of the darker history, though, and that most important island preoccupation: the weather.
Cap’n just told me that this true tale has been turned into a musical! It’s a sweet story about the profound kindness of local folks toward the people stranded in Gander on 9/11. Worth a read, especially when you start getting the feeling that humans deserve to go extinct. (I call these my Meteor Days.)
This sounds highly specific, but it’s a variation on the particularly Newfoundland theme of government/corporate disregard for the horrifyingly poor working class. Also a good, if sad, yarn. My second-hand copy of the book came with a Reader’s Digest article and photo of the book-owner with the captain of the unfortunate ship.
Newfoundland coming-of-age story about an outport orphan adapting to a new life in the city. Could be a good intro to the culture if you’re not quite ready to dive into The Shipping News?
Indispensable for our cruise, and especially beloved of me for its literary asides – birds of Beowulf! Favorite new bird: fierce white gannets.
Geeeeky! Ergo, loved. Originally a booklet for the iceberg tourist industry, now printed in color with everything you didn’t know you need to know about icebergs.
I adore weather-talk, but this was intense. Not, as expected, quirky anecdotes but a hardcore weather nerd history. I am in no way being snarky when I say it was perfect bedtime reading when I wanted to fall asleep quickly. What better way to drift off?
Newfoundland doesn’t overflow with guide books, but this was my favorite of the few. The theme of local recommendations makes for quirky lists that reveal what’s valued locally. And there is so much to explore!
Questions? Thoughts? Tall tales? Haiku? Comment away, friends.
And geek out with me on Goodreads!
From the personal log of s/v Rincewind’s shwabbie.
July 28, Trout River, Newfoundland
First stop: Discovery Center for wi-fi. Then a bit of the Green Gardens walk, adding a stone to the cairn. Seemed like a good moose spot but we never did see one.
Lunch in Trout River: partridgeberry scallops!
Trout River cat memorial. Rest in peace, Kibbles.
Walked up to a lookout and could seen an old man scything his garden. On the way down we talked to him but could barely understand a word – the first truly difficult accent. If I hadn’t read at the Discovery Center that “whippersnipping” = weed whacking [“strimming” in England], I would have been completely lost. Old-fashioned real place.
Snagged Tablelands and Woody Point geocaches on the way back, the former in a parking lot but the latter a pleasant waterside walk. All of this, I should say, in the sun. We’ve had the best weather luck this trip.
Final s’mores and then some sleep before taking Mom to the airport at 2:30am.
From the personal log of s/v Rincewind’s shwabbie.
July 27, Gros Morne National Park
Emergency stop for calamine this morning: poison ivy on my face from cursed Port Hawkesbury cemetery geocache? There’s no poison ivy in Newfoundland, though possibly cow parsnip? Cousin to hogweed can cause rash or burn.
Found a Pokemon in the woods! Am I doing it right? #geocaching
Sunrise Cafe lunch: chilli and patridgeberry muffins. We drove up to the Arches, photogenic seaside rocks eroded by waves.
Started Cow Head walk, soon fell on a slippery bridge, fab bruise on lower arm. [See bruise in photo above!]
Dinner theater SS Ethie, fun show with cod dinner. Young Doctor Who fans for dinner neighbors. We’d seen the remains of the wreck of Ethie the day before.
[The SS Ethie was a mail and passenger ship that deliberately grounded in a terrible storm, December 1919. The crew and passengers all survived, including a baby who was delivered to shore in a mail bag. Great Newfoundland story, one of many on the theme of greed and disregard for the well-being of common folk.]
From the personal log of s/v Rincewind’s shwabbie.
July 26, Gros Morne National Park
7am dropped Bill off for Gros Morne mountain hike. Mom and I started our mother/daughter day with the Berry Hill walk and then visited Lobster Cove lighthouse.
Then Rocky Harbour for our first partridgeberry pancakes – wow. Some shopping and a good cemetery wander.
We stopped by the restored Jenniex House for the views and a nearby geocache.
Time to pick up Bill! To celebrate his hiking accomplishment, we made mini-bunting from our boat tour tickets and a small chain.
Snacks at the Little Red Chip Wagon on Norris Point and then back to the cabin to rest up.
Personal log of s/v Rincewind’s shwabbie
July 25, Western Brook Pond, Gros Morne National Park
I didn’t keep a good log while we were in the absolutely stunning Gros Morne National Park – too busy! But on July 25th we visited this stunning not-quite-a-fjord.
First, a short hike to the tour boat.
Then a boat tour through magical Western Brook Pond, former glacial fjord now cut off from the sea.
Pissing Mare Falls, among the highest in eastern North America.
Personal log of s/v Rincewind’s shwabbie.
July 24, Gros Morne National Park
I didn’t keep a good log while we were in the absolutely stunning Gros Morne National Park – too busy! Here are my cryptic notes, with some photos:
Stanleyville hike – over the saddle to a beach. We carried gravel to improve the trail. Found a geocache hidden next to a moose antler.
Woody Point. Lunch at The Loft. Artsy place, lighthouse.
View of Gros Morne mountain from the lighthouse.
“The Tablelands, found between the towns of Trout River and Woody Point in south west of Gros Morne National Park, look more like a barren desert than traditional Newfoundland. This is due to the ultramafic rock – peridotite – which makes up the Tablelands. It is thought to originate in the Earth’s mantle and was forced up from the depths during a plate collision several hundred million years ago.” Wikipedia, Gros Morne National Park
We had s’mores almost every night outside our cabin in Lomond.